Legwarmers. It's a functional accessory used to keep legs warm (obviously!). I wanted to make a pair that were as fashionable as they are functional. First, I wanted a pair that were slightly flared (boot bottomed) to fit over my shoes rather than the classic tapered legwarmer look. Second, I wanted to have a pair that had more texture. I've crocheted many boot-bottomed legwarmers in a very simple single crocheted repeat pattern held up by using a thin gartered cord. Knitting the legwarmers gave me more ability to add more texture. The upper portion is in 2x2 rib and folded over to hide the i-cord. The main portion of the legwarmers is covered with cables along with a cabled motif pattern repeated on the back side of them. The legwarmers are held up by an i-cord that has pompoms attached at the ends. I tied the i-cords comfortably, not too tight but enough to be able to mosey around with them on. This was fun to knit and more fun to wear. It's great to pair these up with a skirt or shorts for the cooler days in spring. | |
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SIZE | |
To fit calf circumference up to 16[22] inches (16-inch shown) | |
FINISHED MEASUREMENTS | |
Circumference of ribbed cuff, unstretched: 10[12] inches |
GAUGE | |
20 sts/26 rows = 4 inches in stockinette st |
2x2 Rib (Worked in the round over a multiple of 4 sts):
Round 1: [K2, p2] to end.
Repeat this round for 2x2 Rib.
Back Panel (Worked over 12 sts):
Round 1: P12.
Round 2: P4, T2R, T2L, p4.
Round 3: P4, k4, p4.
Round 4: P3, k1, T2L, T2R, k1, p3.
Round 5: P3, k6, p3.
Round 6: P2, k1, C3F, C3B, k1, p2.
Rounds 7-9: P2, k8, p2.
Round 10: P2, C4F, C4B, p2.
Rounds 11-13: P2, k8, p2.
Round 14: P2, C4B, C4F, p2.
Rounds 15-17: P2, k8, p2.
Round 18: P3, C3B, C3F, p3.
Round 19: P3, k6, p3.
Round 20: P4, T2R, T2L, p4.
Round 21: P4, k4, p4.
Round 22: P4, T2L, T2R, p4.
Cable Pattern
(Worked over a multiple of 22 sts + 10):
Rounds 1-5: P2, k6, p2, [k12, p2, k6, p2] to end.
Round 6: P2, C6B, p2, [k12, p2 C6B, p2] to end.
Rounds 7-10: Work as for Rounds 1-5.
Round 11-15: K10, [k1, p2, k6, p2, k11] to end.
Round 16: K10, [k1, p2, C6B, p2, k11] to end.
Rounds 17-20: Work as for Rounds 11-15.
I-cord:
When working I-cord, work is not turned. Instead of turning the work around to work back on the WS, slide all sts to the other end of the needle, switch the needle back to your left hand, bring the yarn around the back of the work, and start knitting the sts again. After the first 2 sts, give the yarn a sharp tug.
Repeat this row to form I-cord. After a few rows, the work will begin to form a tube.
DIRECTIONS | |
Eyelet Round: Work 24[36] sts in pattern, k2tog, yo, p2, yo, k2tog, continue in pattern to end. Next Round: [M1, p38(54)] twice. 78[110] sts. Next Round: [P2, k2] once[twice], work Back Panel over next 12 sts, [k2, p2] once[twice], k2[3], work Cable Pattern over next 54[76] sts, working pattern repeat section 2[3] times, k2[3]. This round establishes pattern for legwarmer. Continue in pattern until all rounds of Back Panel have been worked 3 times, then work 1 round more (Round 1 of Back Panel); you will have just completed Round 7 of Cable Pattern. K 1 round. P 1 round. LEFT LEGWARMER Eyelet Round: Work 46[66] sts in pattern, k2tog, yo, p2, yo, k2tog, cont in pattern to end. Next Round: [P38(54), m1] twice. 78[110] sts. Next Round: K2[3], work Cable Pattern over next 54[76] sts, working pattern repeat section 2[3] times, k2[3], [p2, k2] once[twice], work Back Panel over next 12 sts, [k2, p2] once[twice]. This round establishes pattern for legwarmer. Continue as for Right Legwarmer. | |
FINISHING | |
Make 2 cords as follows: Before binding off cord, insert through eyelets as shown in photots and try on to determine desired length. BO all sts; do not weave in ends. Insert cords through eyelets. Make 4 pom poms and sew to ends of cords using yarn tails at each cord end.
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ABOUT THE DESIGNER | |
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